MWR stands for Morale, Welfare, and Recreation. Carney Park in Pozzuoli near Naples, Italy, falls into that classification for the fleet and families of U.S. citizens living here. The 93-acre site is the venue for a 9-hole golf course, swimming pool, athletic fields, party room, mini mart, a restaurant, jogging trails, and the like. This facility is in the crater of Campiglione, an extinct volcano in the Phlegraean Fields. It is about seven minutes from our house. Italy owns the land and leases it to the United States. The facilities and programs are self-financed with usage fees.

This morning we went to Ayla’s soccer practice. She is in the Under 5 group. Her team, the Smashing Pumpkins (orange team), played against the Green Dragons (green team). I guess it’s not too early to learn the game and how to keep your eye on the ball.

Suiting up

Jumping jacks with coaches and dads

Smashing Pumpkins warm up

Finally, some action by the opposing Green Dragons

After the game


“Pizze” in Italian means “pizzas” in English. TIFF, our first restaurant in Italy, overlooks Pozzuoli Bay.

The view of Arco Felice neighborhood from the terrace of TIFF Ristorante.

Look at the two-page menu from TIFF Ristorante where we walked to for lunch. The bakers. And the product from the Napoli wood-burning pizza oven. Fresh ingredients and a slightly chewy crust (neither overly crispy nor too soft and bread-like) are the differences I detected in this famous food of Napoli.

TIFF pizze menu

We viewed our pizze in the making through a window. They took just a few minutes to bake in the hot wood-burning oven in the background.

Four seasons pizza

Margherita with buffalo mozzarella pizza

Rustica pizza — sausage, potatoes, rosemary, cheese

Pizza with unbaked toppings

Normally, each person orders an individual pizza and shares a container of beer. I stuck to water. At the Italian table caraffe of both acqua (water) naturale and acqua effervescente are standard.

Two waters and little Perrin (10 months)