The cold-windy-rainy weather persists even in this little corner of Italy this Halloween night. It’s really howling outside, and we’ve turned on the heat. Pete and I ventured on foot to explore Pozzuoli again today. Besides a morning stroll along Via Napoli, the shoreline promenade that supposedly will take you all the way to Naples, we stopped for coffee and revisited the harbor to support the local economy at a shop that advertised North Sails apparel. Pete has North Sails on his sailboat in Kaneohe Bay in Hawaii. We outfitted him with a warm and stylish long-sleeve shirt and watch cap that we saw in the window.

Ancient ruins are everywhere in Pozzuoli, which is in the middle of Campi Flegrei (the Phlegrean Fields of volcanoes). Tempio Di Serapide (Temple of Serapis) on Via Roma was in between the shop and the house where we’re staying, so we made a point to see it. It’s not really a temple, but a former Macellum, or food market. We could see the remains of shop walls around perimeter of the courtyard with columns.

Continual bradyseism, the slow rise and fall of the earth, causes the Macellum to flood with water when it falls below sea level. We weren’t sure today if the water was from the sea or from above.

Here’s a look at the market we passed at the harbor today, about four blocks away.

As the rain fell harder, I noticed a ceramic-tile mural of Pozzuoli and Ristorante Sileno with the Macellum columns in the center, a picture depicting a scene from long ago, 800 A.D., after the Vesuvius eruption of 79 A.D.

We went around the corner and ducked into an eatery. Gosh, it was raining, we were hungry, and it was lunchtime, and we found ourselves in Ristorante Sileno! It was too early for pizza. In fact, the supplies for the day including the wood for the pizza oven were just arriving. So I ordered antipasti and spaghetti con le cozze. Buonissimo!

As she worked, our server sang to no one in particular. The proprietor Enzo Di Donato was most cordial and wanted us to know that famous people, like Sophia Loren, ate here. Photos of VIPs with Enzo hung on the walls. He showed us a live octopus, and we think we saw him give it to the man who brought the firewood.

The wind was blustery, and the sea was raging, much like it is in this painting in the restaurant.

Raining even heavier outside now than when we arrived, Enzo offered to give us a lift. He made us feel like VIPs, but we thanked him in favor of a Halloween walk home.